Critical Facts & Opinions - Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Bourbon

THE CROWN GETS HOISTED

I gotta be honest with you, I’m not a huge fan of “Top List”. I hate to say that because who doesn’t want to file through a rundown of what the experts regard as the best of the best. So, every year when the rankings drop, I try not to give them the credit they’re due. Although, I can’t deny I give them a glance to just familiarize myself with what’s going to be the latest “new hotness” to fly off the shelves.

This whole pointless rant is to bring you into my perspective of the value I place on these so-called “expert’s list”. Absolutely you should use them as a jump off point of reference to let you know these items are worthy of your consideration, but don’t just take them as gospel truth is all I’m saying.

Now you should still get the warm and fuzzies whenever someone whips out a highly regarded and vastly sought after choice selection. This brings me to the day someone sprung on me a bottle of the 2017 Whisky of the Year Heaven Hill’s Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Bourbon. A title graciously bestowed to it by the prestigious and dignified critics from Whisky Advocate. (that’s my attempt to kiss ass after I wiped my own with them a few moments ago)

There’s one thing that supersedes all opinions though, and it’s the facts. Facts can eliminate the subjective nature of conversations. Especially, when the conversation is attempting to identify who we need to thank for being the de facto innovator to which all others are measured. Why give you a rundown of the importance of facts versus opinions? Because it gives credence to the fact that Elijah Craig has been changing opinions (not just my own) since the very beginning.

LEADING TO THE MASSES

Let’s venture back some 235 or so years and plop ourselves smack dab in the middle of Kentucky in the late 1700’s. You’d find yourself in a new world brimming with discovery, opportunity, and migration guided by faith and fervor. Elijah Craig, the actual man, was knee deep in this world. He was a leader, a politician, an educator, a preacher, a land speculator, a businessman and an all-around jack-of-all-trades gentleman… oh, and did I mention the guy also opened a distillery ‘round this time? ‘Cause he did!

Sometime in 1789, Craig had the “novel” idea to open a distillery in what would soon become the commonwealth of Kentucky. I emphasize novel because by this time he was one of several dozen, if not hundred, small farmer-distillers who were setting up shop west of the Allegheny Mountains producing a new style of corn-based whiskey (that’s right, whiskey with an e, not whisky like it’s known by the Scots and all its cronies). They called this new concoction Bourbon. This was in sheer defiance to the rye-based whiskey being made east of the aforementioned mountain range. So, why does he go down in the annals of Americana whiskEy lore? It might just have something to do with his barrels.

Many scholars reference entries in logs while others use fantastical myths & fables which point to his legacy. Ultimately, the one long-standing distinguishing tidbit for his infamy comes in the form of the particular kinds of aging vessels he rested his liquid lightning in. So prominent was his method it ultimately became the standard practice once the masses started tasting his righteously glorious spirits. The praise was so unending that it’s still the defining characteristic of Bourbon ’til this day. The folklore is he was the first to char his barrels, hence his designation as the “Father of Bourbon”.  

What is char you ask? Luckily, you’re talking to the leading laureate champion of random alcoholic facts this side of Sauwesera (it’s a Miami thing). Charring is a method of toasting the inside of a wood barrel to bring out the aromas & flavors of the wood which will result in a smooth richening of the whiskey; as well as imparting a brownish amber hue to the end product. Many believe this wasn’t an innovation from the mind of the preacher turned businessman turned distiller, but better yet an adaptation he took from the sugar barrels he was using to age his corn liquors. However the idea came to him, the results became the stuff of legend as he continued to perfect his process and, along the way, he also changed the process of making Bourbon forever.

COMIN’ OUT SWINGIN’

To say they weren’t holding back any punches is an understatement when it comes to the nose on this bourbon because it clocks you right on the muzzle like a wakeup call from Mike Tyson (proceed with caution Jake). The fact that its barrel proof is evident from the get-go. As you get past the initial alcohol singe you begin to peel back the layers of toffee, vanilla and golden cereal aromas. The proof is in the glass that the method of charring new oak is hands down one of the most alluring aspects of a solid bourbon.

Love me two times (for better choice of words), cause I’d already forgotten about the alcohol levels, and it came back to catch me with a hook to the mouth. It stings and tingles the tongue as the warmth dissipates across the palate, but the lingering results are just anticipatory hints of the huge flavors to come. Salted caramel and kettle corn dance on the midpalate and they must be cutting up the rug cause the subtle fire slices through even now. It’s like a scene out of Beauty & the Beast cause the high alcohol allows for the palate to naturally cleanse itself as the fumes burn off like something is there that wasn’t there before. The scorched remains allow for the more subtle flavors of honey and butterscotch to settle.

To have this much depth in a high proof bottling of bourbon is where the art of craftsmanship really shines and I gotta give credit to the critics. Everyone really knocked it out with this one. I throw in the towel and give the W to the master’s at Heaven Hill’s Elijah Craig. The facts are the old man would be proud.